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How to Properly Prune Crape Myrtles
It is that time of year when you start thinking about pruning your crape myrtles. Unfortunately, for many folks that involves “topping” the tree (topping: a misguided pruning practice commonly called “crape murder” or “hat-racking”*). Topping requires less skill, and time than other pruning methods, but it also results in delayed 
flowering, weak growth, and unattractive sprouting. Not only is topping crape myrtles ugly, it increases maintenance requirements on an otherwise low-maintenance plant.
In the past, it was true that you pruned crape myrtles to reduce powdery mildew infestations. With today’s resistant cultivars, crape myrtles require very little pruning. In fact, a crape myrtle planted in full sun with plenty of space to grow needs little to no pruning at all.
If you find yourself in the position to prune crape myrtles, here are a few simple steps to follow. First, prune sucker sprouts and basal sprouts. If left to grow, these sprouts may form woody stems that eventually compete with 
existing main stems. Second, prune any rubbing or crossing branches, as well as, dead branches. This may include branches that are crossing through the canopy from one side to another. As always make the pruning cuts at the branch collar.
Third, (this one is optional) tip prune the branches to remove spent flower buds. This is also called pencil pruning because the branches removed are no thicker than a pencil. This type of pruning is the most labor intensive, but it also results in a more aesthetically attractive tree.
Recent research from the University of Florida has demonstrated that the number of crape myrtle blooms decrease in direct correlation to the size of the branch removed. In other words the larger the branch removed, the fewer the blooms. However, blooms on pruned trees were a larger than blooms on un-pruned trees. To receive the benefit of larger flowers from pruning, prune just pencil sized branches without jeopardizing overall tree health caused by topping the tree.
For more information refer to: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP39900.pdf.
Article by Larry Figart, UF/Duval County Urban Forester
* not part of original article
What flowers will bloom all winter and can tolerate the cold?
What flowers will bloom all winter and can tolerate the cold? Here’s a short list:
- Pansies
- Supertunias
- Petunia
- Verbena
- Superbena
- Snapdragen
- Snowprincess
- Hybrid Tea Roses
- Drift Roses & Knockout Roses
Supertunias
The Supertunias should bloom until around July. You can replant them as early as October. The Verbena and Superbena will grow all year round and bloom. They may have to be cut back if they get to leggy. The Snowprincess will grow and bloom year round but does not like to dry out. Be sure to give it enough water. To have Snapdragons bloom all winter you need to plant them early in the fall. They need to be established early before the days shorten to blossom all winter. Roses actually like the cooler weather better than the hot summer. The biggest mistake I see with Roses is that they are planted in the shade – they like full sun. Be sure to cut back your roses February 14th each year and give them a good feeding. Roses should be fed monthly from February through Fall.
Your more formal flowers that bloom in the cooler weather are Camellia both Japonica and Sasanqua, and Shi-Shi Camellia.
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